Salwaar kameez, is a traditional ethnic outfit originating from the Indian subcontinent. The apparel comprises a head scarf, kameez (long shirt) and shalwar (baggy trousers) when worn by women and kameez and shalwar when worn by men. The term salwaar kameez covers different styles according to the region where the outfit is worn. Styles include Anarkali, Punjabi, Afghani and Balochi. In origin, the shalwar and kameez are two separate garments which have been combined to form the shalwar kameez outfit. It is the national dress of Pakistan, and commonly worn throughout the Indian subcontinent.
The salwaar are loose pajama-like trousers. The legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the ankle. The kameez is a long shirt or tunic, often seen with a Western-style collar; however, for female apparel, the term is now loosely applied to collarless or mandarin-collared kurtas.
The kameez can be sewn straight and flat, in an "A" shape design or flowing like a dress; there are a variety of styles. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, or styled in cap-sleeve or sleeveless designs.
Research says that the silhouette of the costumes worn by Iranian and Turkish men i.e. loose trousers that narrowed down at the bottom and fastened at the waist was the precursor of the modern day salwar, also known as shalwar. The Mughal invasion in the 12th century imported the style of the salwar kameez and popularized it. The salwar kameez went on to become the symbol of Punjabi fashion. A synthesis of Persian and Indian styles, the salwar kameez has transformed a lot over the years but has still retained its charm.
MATERIAL
Made in a wide range of fabrics such as Georgette, brocade, chiffon, net, cotton, silk, satin, and more, the salwar kameez has lent itself over the years to changing cuts, needs, tastes and trends more than any other outfit. It has also been hugely inspired by the mainstream Indian film industry.
VARIETY
Salwars are available in a wide range of silks like chiffon silk, dupion silk, satin silk, crepe silk, tussar silk and paper silk. The salwar kameez has imbibed many styles of embroidery such as Jaipuri Bhandej, Lucknowi Chikankari, Punjabi Phulkari, Zardozi, beaded sequins, mirror work and block printing to name a few. The range in salwar styles includes Parallel Salwar Suits, Patiala Style Salwar Suits, Pakistani or Pathani Salwar Suits, Sharara Salwar Suits, Indo-Western Kurta with Leggings.
· Punjabi suits
The traditional shalwar kameez worn in the Punjab region is cut differently to the styles worn in Balochistan and Afghanistan and is known as a "Punjabi suit “with the kameez being cut straight and flat with side slits(which is a local development as earlier forms of kameez did not have side slits). The shalwar is wide at the top but fits closely to the legs and is gathered at the ankles. The Punjabi suits are also cut straight and gathered at the ankles with a loose band reinforced with coarse material. In rural Punjab, the salwar is still called the suthan, which is a different garment that was popular in previous centuries, alongside the churidar and kameez combination (which is still popular).In Britain, British Asian women from the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent have brought the dress to the mainstream, and even high-fashion, appeal.
· The Afghani Suit: In this style, the salwar is very baggy and is often embroidered along the leg or ankle. The kameez is shorter than a traditional suit, ranging from mid-thigh to above the knee. This suit can be sleeveless.
· The Parallel Suit: It is similar to the salwar suit except that the pants are like trousers or slightly flared like a boot cut. The parallel pant is often embroidered or designed to match the kurta which may be short or knee length. Kurtas with this type of pant can be sleeveless or with thin straps or strapless depending on the design. A dupatta with the parallel suit is optional.
· The Pathani: An indigenous dress for males in Afghanistan and Pakistan, Pathani fits are worn by men in India as well, especially those belonging to the Muslim community. Available in silk, khadi and polyester besides cotton, Pathani suits are perfect for formal and special days. They can be embellished with embroidery and are available in a wide array of colors.
SUITABILITY
Salwar kameez and churidar suits can be worn throughout the year, on special occasions as well as regular days. The only thing to keep in mind is to purchase a salwar kameez outfit that suits the season and is appropriate for the occasion in terms of embellishments, cuts, silhouettes and accessories.
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